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My Stanley Go-Box - Version 2.0

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K8MWS
My Stanley Go-Box - Version 2.0

With time to kill with CoVid-Stay-at-Home, I decided to rebuild my Stanley Go-Box.  I had a couple of objectives for this iteration:

(1) Incorporate a dedicated laptop computer
(2) Incorporate a dedicated Raspberry Pi
(3) Incorporate a managed network switch
(4) Improve flexibility by incorporating a patch panel
(5) Incorporate a MikroTik hAP router/radio and a Grandstream VOIP phone.
(6) Configure the Bo-Box as a desktop workstation - plop it on the table, open the lid, connect the cables, and get to work.

I decided to go with aluminum this time, mostly because I hadn't tried working with it before and I liked the look of it.  I priced out some sheet aluminum, but decided to go with some heavy aluminum cookie sheets - much cheaper.  Plexiglass or Lexan sheet would have worked as well, but it would have added some thickness.  Because space was at a premium for this build, I decided to not use POE injectors, but instead wire the POE directly into the appropriate patch panel RJ45 jacks.  This ended up being much simpler than I had expected, so I don't see myself buying any more POE injectors in the future.  The managed switch is not really necessary, but I have had it laying around for a year, so I thought I would incorporate it to give maximum flexibility in the future if I need to start using VLANs.  Bringing all of the RJ45 connections in through a patch panel enhances the flexibility allowing me to connect any device to any switch or MikroTik port.   I built in a Raspberry PI 4 with a Power Expansion Board that includes a 12V to 5V converter, a cooling fan, and safe shutdown circuitry.  Still kicking around ideas for how I will use the Raspberry PI...    The Grandstream VOIP phone is held in place with Velcro strips, but can be removed and placed next to the box if necessary.  The laptop is held in place with several large Velcro patches and a small bungie cord.  I still may put in some small plastic blocks to more securely hold the laptop in place when the Go-Box is closed. The entire assembly can be easily removed from the Stanley Box for modifications, changing the Raspberry Pi SD card, etc.    All in all I am pretty happy with how it turned out.










kc8ufv
kc8ufv's picture
Looks great, Mark.
Looks great, Mark.

To those outside the NW OH area, those network jacks are color coded by what power they provide, or don't provide. Red = 48V passive, Yellow = 24V passive, and green is NO POE. Makes it easy to identify what power is available on a certain jack. Maybe this weekend we'll have the Lucas County ARES trailer done enough to document that with pictures.
Kf7vol
Kf7vol's picture
That is impressive...
That is impressive...

good work!!
K9CQB
K9CQB's picture
This is absolutely gorgeous!!!
I'm totally envious of this setup. This is just gorgeous and very usable. Well done.

-Damon K9CQB
iz5fsa
iz5fsa's picture
"Emergency TLC Box" very
"Emergency TLC Box" very important project... I'll study at something near.

--
73 de Leo IZ5FSA
KE6GYD
KE6GYD's picture
Very Clean setup - Here's another

I did something similar about two years ago.  I'm impressed by your kit as it is very clean, versatile and has additional capability.
Mine's a more basic GoKit with phone, camera stored inside along with some lengths of ethernet, and V-LAN switch.   I use an external battery and the computer is not part of the kit but is ready to go in a separate bag with 12v DC adapter to run from a battery.  My power is supplied by a PowerWerx PowerBox with 20ah LiFeP04 battery or from any other 12v power source.
See my attached pics. They are of my version 2.0.  Version 1.0 is the attached document and is in a smaller box.
My Color Coding for PoE is 12vDC (RED), 24vDC (Blue), 48v DC (Yellow)(For PolyCom VoIP phone).
73
Bob
 

Image Attachments: 
W6RUF
W6RUF's picture
AREDN Should standardize the POE color code scheme
These GO boxes are looking great.  I think it is going to become important to standardize how we color code the cables going to equipment to keep from frying stuff.  Mnemonically, powering some links from 12 volts should be accommodated so maybe the (suggested) spec looks like this:
GREEN = No Power
YELLOW = 10.8 to 24 VDC on pins 4,5 POS, 7,8 NEG
RED = 36 to 48 VDC per 802.3at negotiating
PURPLE = future expansion
 
kc8ufv
kc8ufv's picture
Actually, when I do my mobile
Actually, when I do my mobile install, I plan on doing that. I'll be running the nodes directly off the 13.8 instead of using a boost converter. I'll just keep the cables relatively short. The Mikrotik stuff is rated all the way down to 8V, so, that should help. On our ARES trailer, with the cabling install we just did, we added blue to the scheme for switched, for us to use for an access point that could be turned on/off to provide coverage in the vicinity outside from the radio room.

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